Step 39 - Engine

Hooked it up and dropped it in.  Took three of us - one manning the hoist and one on each side to guide the headers (thanks Bob and Tom).  RMP motor mounts made alignment easy.  Bolted on the flywheel and called it a night.

Step 38 - Prep for Engine Install

Finished prepping the engine bay - installed battery hold-down strap and battery wires, caulked around AC and heater hoses, adjusted steering lockout arm, plugged all firewall and body holes and detailed everything. 

Cleaned up the Cleveland and installed Ron Morris motor mounts.  This is the original block - its been updated with the following (back in April '10): bored .030 over, new pistons (KB Hypereutectic 177), roller hydraulic cam (Crane HR-224/339-2S-12), roller lifters (Crane 36532), roller rockers (Comp Cams 1130), stock rods, stock crank, Trick Flow heads, Air Gap intake, Holley 670, aluminum water pump, blue-printed Melling oil pump (not high volume), MSD distributor (8577) - all that good stuff dyno tuned to 445 HP back in May '10.

Step 37 - Windshield Washer Reservoir

Installed new reservoir and washer pump.  Originals crusty - replaced with reproductions.

Step 36 - Trunk Weatherstrip

Still trying to find a dash pad that fits - even drove up to NPD in Ocala and checked the four they had in stock - no joy - so instead of moving ahead with the dash - we installed he trunk's weatherstrip.

Step 35 - Gauge Cluster

Installed the original Gauge Cluster.  Spent some time plastic polishing all of the lenses and repainting the housing.  Swapped out all the original 194 bulbs with LEDs (no burnt diffusers) and replaced the voltage regulator.  Replaced the original speedometer cable with a new one from Virginia Mustang (for some reason the cable in this car was a 4-speed cable vs. the correct FMX cable). The obvious next step would be to finish up with the dash installation - but I had to send the dash pad back to Dashes Direct since it had some quality issues...
Parts:  original cluster, new LEDs, new voltage regulator, new speedometer cable and clamps, cluster hardware from AMK.

Step 34 - Front Speaker

Don't buy a cool dual-voice coil front speaker if you're retro-fitting AC...you won't be able to attach the duct...oops, bad Plan A.

Plan B:  Buy a pair of good 3.5 inch speakers that can handle a peak of 50 watts.  Next you'll need a mount - do not buy the plastic one...once you put a little torque on those screws the 'not made in USA' plastic will shatter - not crack - but shatter.  Higher quality coaxial speakers will weigh more than cheaper less power-capable ones - this mount is not up to the task.

Plan C:  Break out big tools and fabricate.  I used 1/4 inch aluminum - plenty of room for the duct and it should last a long long time.

Step 33 - Trunk Carpet

Driver's side trunk carpet

Passenger side trunk carpet

Carpet detail

Here's what the 'Carpet Wizard' is capable of (he's also called - Wayne - he installed the headliner too). Perfect fit.

Step 32 - Wiper Transmission

Installed the wiper transmission.  I ordered a couple of pivot shaft seals for a 67-70, they did not fit - not even close.  

Had some cut to fit (from closed cell foam) - note the size difference. 

Parts:  original arms and pivots, custom cut seals, bolts from AMK.

Step 31 - Shock Tower Covers

Installed new shock tower covers (low hanging mustang-reconstruction fruit). 
Parts:  new covers, new bumpers, nuts and bolts from AMK.

Step 30 - Trunk Light

Wired in an original trunk light.  Used the correct clips to secure the Light's wire and added an extra length of Powerbraid for some additional protection.  This Mach1 already had the green trunk light wire in the rear harness.  It was missing the convenience group connector and wiring, so I added a hot wire to the main harness (spliced from the radio's hot wire).
Parts:  Trunk Light via Ebay, Powerbraid and some wire

Step 29 - Let there be light

Electrical Testing Day.  Installed the battery and battery cables.  Applied power for the first time in 20+ years - with all wiring harnesses plugged in, all bulbs (except headlights) installed and the instrument cluster connected.  Good news - no smoke - bad news - nothing worked when the lights were switched on.  One symptom that stood out was that both turn signal indicators in the instrument cluster were illuminated when the lights were on.  So after checking every wire in the car (not kidding) and looking for a missing ground in all but the most obvious place...the problem turned out to be a missing front bumper.  That's right - in the absence of  the front bumper - don't forget to ground both front turn signals.

Simulated Front Bumper...

Front Lights

Interior Lights

Rear Lights

Step 28 - Steering Column

Installed the Steering Column (coupler, firewall gasket, ignition switch, and turn signal switch).  With the Borgenson unit you'll have to 'shorten' the inner shafts by two inches.  Be prepared to spend some time completely dissembling the entire column to get to the steering lock tube.  Then deploy the hammer.
Parts: coupler and gasket are new, all other parts are original

Step 27 - Steering Gear

Finished up the power steering conversion installation.  Replaced all of the original power steering components with new manual steering parts.
Parts:  box from Borgenson, snagged the center link and Pitman arm off of Ebay, all of the other parts I picked up from Opentracker Racing Products ("1970 Make-It-New Steering Rebuild Kit")

Step 26 - Spoilerized

Installed the rear spoiler.  All original parts with the exception of the gaskets and the hardware (AMK via NPD)

Step 25 - Glove Box

Installed the glove box assembly. All original parts with the exception of the plastic box and the bumpers - had to replace the old non-A/C version for a reproduced A/C version.

Step 24 - Heater Control and Radio

Back to the interior.  Installed the heater control unit (includes a new blower switch and control cables to connect to the Classic Auto Air system).  Mounted a new Radio (Retrosound Classic) to the original support bracket - took some time (hours) bending, cutting and staring to get everything lined up and centered.  The radio is much smaller than the original unit so accessing the wiring at the rear of the unit won't be a problem.  Once the radio is lined up I finished up by installing the side trim panels and the radio bezel.
Parts:  original heater control unit (new blower switch and cables), Retrosound Classic Radio, original side trim panels, NOS bezel pinched from ebay, screws, bolts, and nut-plates from AMK.

Step 23 - Battery Tray

Installed new battery tray - the original was rusted scrap.  Nuts and bolts from AMK.

Step 22 - Branded

The Mach is a Mach 1 again...  Choose to copy the original spacing on the car - more or less (which was not a factory job since the car had been repainted twice).

Step 21 - Rear Sway Bar and Rear Shocks

Installed rear sway bar (original).  Half inch bushings are a pain to find (thanks to Roger Parks for finding me a good set).  Installed a pair of Edelbrock Classic IAS Performer Shocks - boots up.
Parts:  original sway bar and brackets, bushings, new end links, and shocks

Step 20 - Rear Bumper

Installed new rear bumper.

Parts:  Bumper from NPD, hardware from AMK, mounts from Laurel, neoprene washers from Dead Nuts On.

Note: not all bumpers are created equal - see image to the right.

Bottom Bumper is the original (rusty with some pitting - but great fit).

Middle Bumper is NPD's made by Golden Legion - (hand selected for me by Mitch in FL - THANKS!) - very close to the original in all aspects.

Top Bumper (and lower right image) is "Auto Power" from Laurel - cracked on top of driver's side, poor finish on all edges, bad fit on passenger side - stuck out like an inch from the side of the car ...rejected.  I contacted Laurel asked for a refund and sent pics.  Since I purchased the bumper back in Feb '10 (along with $2K worth of sheet metal), Laurel decided not to exchange or provide a refund...bummer...so I boxed it up and sent it back to them anyway.
(4/27 updated - Laurel eventually refunded my $99)

So if you buy a bumper make sure you take it out of the box and thoroughly inspect it - especially if you plan on putting it on the shelf for any length of time.