Step 20 - Rear Bumper

Installed new rear bumper.

Parts:  Bumper from NPD, hardware from AMK, mounts from Laurel, neoprene washers from Dead Nuts On.

Note: not all bumpers are created equal - see image to the right.

Bottom Bumper is the original (rusty with some pitting - but great fit).

Middle Bumper is NPD's made by Golden Legion - (hand selected for me by Mitch in FL - THANKS!) - very close to the original in all aspects.

Top Bumper (and lower right image) is "Auto Power" from Laurel - cracked on top of driver's side, poor finish on all edges, bad fit on passenger side - stuck out like an inch from the side of the car ...rejected.  I contacted Laurel asked for a refund and sent pics.  Since I purchased the bumper back in Feb '10 (along with $2K worth of sheet metal), Laurel decided not to exchange or provide a refund...bummer...so I boxed it up and sent it back to them anyway.
(4/27 updated - Laurel eventually refunded my $99)

So if you buy a bumper make sure you take it out of the box and thoroughly inspect it - especially if you plan on putting it on the shelf for any length of time.

Step 19 - Prep the Steering Box - an unnecessary step...

I purchased the Power Steering Conversion Box from Borgenson to update the steering - out of the box it was rusted, poorly finished and it showed signs of seeping fluid.

Rusted - right out of the box

I contacted Borgenson and asked if I could send the unit back for replacement - when I told them it was rusted they said 'no'.  When I told them it was seeping fluid they said 'sure'.  So I sent it back to them.  A week or so later, the same rusty box shows up with a note - tested to 2000 PSI - no leaks.

They did explain that the boxes are not new, the boxes are reconditioned using a machine process that apparently does not result in a box that is in the condition of the one presented on their website:  http://www.borgeson.com/xcart/product.php?productid=1511&cat=60&page=1

Thus I am stuck with a rusty box.  I can't deal with rust.  Off to the media blaster for an hour of rust killing.  Followed by some time with the epoxy paint.  Hopefully it works good and lasts a long time....

If you're thinking about picking one of these up, plan on investing a little time cleaning and repainting your "Re-manufactured modern power steering box".

After some glass-bead TLC

Step 18 - Rear Lights, Trim, Quarter Extensions, and Trunk Lid

Installed honeycomb panel and trim.  Tail lights went in easy as did the rear extensions - just some minor tweaking.  Trunk slid right in too.  Starting to look like a car again.

Parts:  new honeycomb panel, new trim, new light bezels, original lenses and buckets, new gasket, LED tail lights (PCB type), new hardware (AMK - original trim nuts and clips were in bad way - AMK1196 saved the day)

Step 17 - Solenoid and Regulator

Installed new starter solenoid and voltage regulator.  Swapped out the guts of an original style regulator with a modern solid-state unit.

Step 16 - Parking Brake and Dimmer Switch

Installed Parking Brake, Brake Cable, and Dimmer Switch.  Had to replace the original cable assembly and pedal pad - everything else is original.  NOTE:  don't try to push the cable up from underneath - push it down through the floorboard.

Step 15 - Reverse Lights

Installed reverse lights - had fun with those gaskets.

Step 14 - Main Harness

Installed new front wiring harness (original was too far gone...)  Had to swap out main connector and do some minor repairs on the fuse box.  AMK wiring clip kit came in handy for routing all of the wires on the firewall and radiator supports.

Step 13 - Trunk Lock

Breakout the toothbrush

and the buffer.  Took a couple of hours to get rid of 40 years of trunk dirt.

Step 12 - Rear Marker Lights

Installed left and right rear marker lights.  Used some 3M caulk around the outside of the bezel to keep the bezel off the paint.  Everything is original with the exception of the bezels - they were toast.

Step 11 - Brakes

Time to finish putting an end to the old manual drums.  Installed MP Brakes front and rear disc upgrades. Rear Brakes:  supplied caliper mount bolts too short by 1/4 inch - buy longer ones. Front Brakes:  the rotors provided by MPB are not the greatest quality, I got replacements locally.  Hub covers would not fit - had to get different ones from MPB.

Step 10 - Wiper Motor

Four bolts, one screw - done.

Step 9 - Lower Dash and Wiring Harness

 

Be prepared to spend some time and blood on this step.  Dash wiring harness was removed and refurbished, all rust on dash was removed or treated, dash was repainted, bezels and knobs were buffed and touched up.  When that's all done, re-install the harness, re-hang the dash and connect the harness to the rear wiring.

Step 8 - Fuel Line

Install
ed front and rear fuel lines.

Step 7 - Fuel Tank, Filler, and Gas Cap

Seat the fuel tank (this is a 2-person operation), install the sending unit, install the filler tube and finally install the gas cap. Parts:  tank, clamps, hose, filler, cap, screws, sending unit, and 3M strip caulk

Step 6 - Rear Wiring Harness

 

Restore - as in scrub every wire with hand cleaner and Simple Green - fix any damaged wires - and wrap with Power Braid (awesome stuff - I used 10 ft. of 1/2 inch and 12 feet of 1/4 inch - don't forget the cloth tape for the ends).  Install from the middle to the front and then from the middle to the rear.  I ran speaker wires in the main bundle.

Step 5 - Air Vents

Air vents installed.

Step 4 - Booster and Brake Pedal

Installed MP Brakes Booster and Brake Pedal for 4 wheel disc - anything is better than the old 4 wheel drums.  Be prepared to grind away on the firewall...

Step 3 - AC/Heater assembly

Can't live in Florida without one of these babies....

Step 2 - Sound Deadening

Sound deadener, cowl and firewall mat installed.
Parts:  25 sq ft of Fat Mat, ~30 sq ft of Dynamat, cowl insulation, and firewall mat.

Step 1 - Headliner

Headliner installation completed.
Parts:  new insulation, new headliner, original rods, hooks, and keepers.